Tag Archives: soup

February 10, 2010

Steak and Two Bean Chili Soup

By swfoodworks

There will be no recipe for this chili.  Sorry, recipe lovers!  I will however try to break up this pretty simple recipe in to little sections that make sense.  If you have a family favorite recipe, there might be some ideas in here to spice it up a little!  I like to think of chili soup as a braised (or stewed) beef (I like chopped up stew cuts) with vegetables and beans used as a garnish.  And that’s how this version came to life.

For the meats, and chili is all about the meats for me, I like to make a dry mix of spices, sugar, and salt.  Here there’s allspice, cinnamon, peppercorns, raw sugar, and star anise.  I also made another powder from coriander, fennel seeds, salt, chili flakes, and celery seeds.

After you have the ground spices going, mix them together.  As a last touch I like to add some espresso powder.  Cut up the steak(s) in to bean-sized pieces and set this all aside.

Combine the dry mixture with the steak bits.  Get a big-ass pot hot with some oil in it, and start searing the meat.  As it cooks the liquid will release and combine with the dry rub to make a  saucy looking mixture.

Add some chicken stock now, to calm down the cooking process.  We essentially want to braise (or stew) the beef at this point.

In a separate small pot add some smoked meat (these are smoked turkey necks from Nebraska), some stock (I used some veal stock from More Than Gourmet) and enough water to cover the smoked meat.  Bring this to a gentle simmer and let it simmer until the following steps are finished (30-45 min).

Meanwhile, caramelize some chopped onions pretty hard (with high heat and a little oil), then turn down the heat and add coarse chopped garlic, and diced Fresno chilies (or others if you like).

Once the vegetables are soft, add a small can of tomato paste and cook out some of the moisture.  Whisk some chicken stock into the vegetables to loosen the tasty seared bits.  Then, transfer the contents to the main pot.

Here is a look at the chili with all the garnishes added.  There are black beans, kidney beans, vegetables, fire roasted tomatoes, smoked turkey stock, and lots of flavor.  Once everything has come together in the pot, I bring it all to a gentle simmer for 20-30 minutes before serving.

This soup was nice and chunky, like I like it.  There was a nice depth of flavors throughout, and pleasant (but not overpowering) heat.

It was such a great day for taking photos in the kitchen, I couldn’t help myself.  Here are a few more!  I hope you found something fun in this cooking slide-show.  As always, I’m happy to answer any questions about this dish or others you come across.

Be well, and eat well–

-Scotty

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January 11, 2010

Tuscan Tomato and Bread Soup

By swfoodworks

I’ve just recently accepted a client who wants me to make one soup per week for him.  For the whole year.  This offering is a great start for our relationship.  It’s easy to make, it utilizes some items your might have kicking around anyway, and it only gets better as the week progresses.  When I was working as the Sous Chef for Ottimista in the Marina, I used to make this pretty often.  There are a few dishes based on the ‘cucina povera‘ or cooking of the poor that have been popularized over the last several years.  Old bread (or stale bread) is put to use in several of them.  Here’s what you’ll need to pull this off:

-Some bread (baguette, Tuscan loaf, or some other un-garnished bread), herbs, onion, garlic, tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, some stock or broth.

The Basic Recipe (yields about 1 gallon)

  • 2 onions (small dice)
  • 1 head garlic (thin slices)
  • 1 small (6 oz) can tomato paste
  • 1 pound bread (small dices, toasted)
  • 1 tsp. crushed chili flakes
  • 1 small bay leaf
  • 2 cups red wine
  • 2 medium (28 oz) cans tomato puree
  • 4 (14oz) cans stock
  • 4-8 TBSP. Fresh Herbs (minced)
  • 2-4 TBSP. red wine vinegar
  • Salt and Pepper to taste

Start by cutting the bread into little pieces.  Get an oven going at 350 and toss these guys in until they are slightly toasted and dry.  Set a timer for about 15-20 minutes and check them every few minutes if they aren’t quite done.

Meanwhile, cut up the onions -

And the garlic.  I like to use a little Japanese mandolin.  Mind the finger tips!

Sweat the onion, garlic, and chili flakes together with a little olive oil until the vegetables are soft and translucent.

Like this -

Now, add the can of tomato paste and cook it for a couple of minutes.  This will develop a little richer flavor.  Next, add the wine, and reduce the wine by at least half.  Then add the crushed tomatoes and half of the stock.

It might look something like this -

At this point add the toasted bread bits.

Add the herb (and bay).  I like to use leafy herbs in warmer months (basil, tarragon, parsley), and stemmy herbs (rosemary, thyme, even sage) in colder months.

Put a lid on it, and let the soup simmer for 20-30 minutes.  Check the consistency, and add the remaining stock if desired.  The bread will continue to soak up liquid during the cooking process, so depending on the type of bread you’ve chosen, and the consistency you prefer, you will find you need more stock (or not).

This is the thickness that I like.  It’s sort of reminds me of a chili soup.  Now you should make your tastes for seasoning.  Adjust with the red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper as needed to your liking.

I chose to garnish with some creme fraiche,  balsamic, and a little extra virgin olive oil.  Fresh herbs are also a welcome finish, as is grated cheese, or whatever your heart desires.

I hope you enjoy this soup.  It is hearty, and bright all at once, and you can take it in many directions.  52 weeks of soup are looming large on my horizon.  I’ll try and send the best ones your way.

Cheers, my dears-

-Scott

2 comments   |  tags: , , , , , | posted in At Home in the Kitchen, Cooking

November 22, 2009

Split Pea Smoked Turkey Soup

By swfoodworks

A good friend of mine has come down with the dreaded H1N1 influenza.  He’s well, and caught everything before his respiratory system was compromised greatly.  A blessing, indeed.  And, like most people who are ill, he really just wants some soup.  So, that’s what I’m bringing him later today; along with some home baked breads.  Usually people will put ham hocks, bacon, or other piggy parts into this style of soup.  I couldn’t bring myself to pile any more swine related items into his house.  So, I opted for a lesser known smoked meat, smoked turkey legs.  Executing the recipe below takes little more than the pots and a little time.  Luckily for me, I had the bread to bake while I was waiting for everything to come together.  Enjoy this soup alone, or share with your own infirm comrades.

Split Pea Smoked Turkey Soup

  • 2 smoked turkey legs
  • 2 medium onions (medium dice)
  • 1 garlic head (peeled, rough chop of cloves)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 cans chicken stock (1 quart)
  • 1 bag (16 oz) dried split peas
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Here we go -.  Put the turkey legs in a pot just big enough to hold them horizontally, and add cold water to cover them by one inch.  Add the bay leaf and bring to a simmer.  Continue simmering for 20-30 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop the onion and garlic cloves.  Sweat the onion and garlic in a good sized (2 gallon) pot with a little oil.  Once the vegetables are tender, add the chicken stock(*), and then the split peas.

Once the turkey stock has simmered for at least 20 minutes, strain the liquid into the other pot.  You can transfer the bay leaf to the soup pot, if you care to.  Cover with a lid and simmer until the peas are very soft.  30-45 minutes.

While the soup is simmering, take the skin away from the turkey and discard it.  Use a paring knife to remove the meat from the bone.  Then pull away any thing that you wouldn’t want to feed someone (bones, gristle, fat, tendons) and chop the remaining meat into small pieces.

Once the peas are very soft (mushy really), remove from the heat, remove bay leaf (if you went for it) and puree (in a processor, blender, or with an immersion blender).  Correct the seasoning, and add the chopped turkey to finish the soup.

Serve now, or refrigerate and transport to your friend most in need.  (*)Note: this is not a super thick style of split pea soup, if that is your preference, once the vegetables are soft, stop cooking until the turkey stock is ready (20 mins or so), then just use the turkey stock (no chicken) with the split peas and continue from this point.

This might not be bad with a stock made from the turkey bones that are sure to be found soon as well.  Maybe with a ham bone or two…  Just throwing it out there.

Take good care of yourself and each other-

-Scott

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November 18, 2009

Let’s Make Soup

By swfoodworks

I’ve been eating this really versatile curried carrot and lentil soup for the last couple of days, and I got inspired to chat about soups in general.  Good soup is a gentle indulgence.  Few plates of food can be as satisfying, and few spoken about with such reverence, passion, and gusto.  I don’t want to pretend that I know what makes soup great, or even what makes a great soup.  Soups, like all foods, are intimate, personal affairs colored by experience and preference.  But I will speak to the general practice, or technique of soup, through this example of my recent product.

Like most of my cooking, soup starts with ingredients that happen to be staring me in the face.  This is my ‘best guess’ recipe for the carrot-lentil-curry soup, and an explanation of both how this soup happened for me, and how it might happen for you.

 

1 large red onion (rough chop)

2 cups carrot (thin slices)

2 TBSP garlic (rough chop)

2 TBSP red curry paste

1 tsp chili flakes

1 bunch rosemary (in cheesecloth)

1 cup lentils

1 qt chicken stock

1 can diced tomatoes

1 tsp red wine vinegar

1 TBSP butter

Salt and Cayenne pepper to taste

As you may know by now, I’m not huge on recipes.  To borrow a phrase; no one ever steps in the same recipe twice, for it’s not the same food, and they aren’t the same person.  And so, with cooking, it’s all about looking, responding, and using techniques.  As a side bar, I’ve been listening to Tim Ferriss’ audio book, “The 4-Hour Work Week“, and have subliminally been motivated into thinking in acronyms.  I didn’t realize it until just now.  Thanks Tim, great stuff so far!  EDGE is a decent acronym for cooking well.

E-valuate

D-ecide

G-ather

E-xecute

Evaluate the ingredients, the weather /season, consider who you might be cooking for (your audience), and whatever else informs your cooking.  Based on your evaluation, Decide which direction to take the ingredients (bisque, stew, curry, chowder, puree, broth, etc.).  Gather the items that you need, if that requires shopping or going to the pantry, and literally bring them all together (mise en place).  Then, Execute your vision using a short list of techniques.

For example:  Knowing that I wanted to make a soup (because it was a crisp San Francisco day and soup sounded satisfying), I opened the refrigerator with that in mind.  We had carrots from our last CSA delivery.  Seeing the carrots reminded me of a great Thai curry, carrot, coconut soup I used to make a lot, so I started thinking about that soup and poked around for more good stuff.  Red onion, garlic, red Thai curry paste, fresh herbs, chicken stock, lentils, not the soup I used to make, but good soup stuffs for sure.  So I brought all the ingredients out to play and proceeded with what I would call “Soup Basics”.

Step One – Sweat the veggies and / or aromatics.

This is the basis of so much cooking.  Cut your aromatics (onions, and garlic here) and cook them with plenty of oil over a medium low heat until they are soft and translucent.  BUT, since carrots are a major part of the soup, I started by cooking the carrots first, and adding the aromatics once the carrots were mostly tender.  I also add the curry paste here to cook it and develop the flavor, as well as the chili flakes to really bring out the spice and infuse it throughout the whole soup.  Could just just throw it all in together?  Sure.  I mean, were making soup here, a puree of vegetable matter soup.  But, I cook the way I cook.  I feel like the vegetables will all be uniformly soft and cooked through if I cook them this way.  Please suit yourselves.

Step Two – Add liquid

I just gave my copy of Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio to a friend.  For the number folks out there (and I see you), this is a well made book that will offer insights into cooking techniques and principals.  I didn’t measure when I made this soup, but I’m sure the ratio of liquid to solids is very close to the ratio you can find in his book.

Once the vegetables were soft, I added the chicken stock and then the lentils and fresh herbs.  I brought to all of this to a boil, reduced to a simmer, put a lid on it, and went for a jog.  When I get back the lentils were soft, and ready to roll.  At this point, I could have served the soup as a hearty lentil stew of sorts, but that wasn’t where I was headed.

Step Three – Correct the consistency and seasoning.

So, instead of the lentil stew looking back at me, I wanted a creamy puree.  I wanted to add a little more depth of flavor, along with some color and moisture at this point, so that’s when the can of tomato bits came to the party.  I removed the bundle of herbs and puree the soup until I was satisfied with the consistency.  Then I tasted for balance.  For me, the soup needed a little more bite of acid and a good punch of salt.  I also felt like a little chunk of butter would be welcome.  For me, it’s almost always welcome, let’s be real.

I hope that you found some inspiration for your own cooking in this recap.  Please contact me if you make this recipe, and let me know how it came out in your kitchen.

Eat well, and Be well-

-Scott

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November 6, 2009

Chestnut Soup (on an open fire)

By swfoodworks

 

PB050018

I love me some chestnuts.  They put me in the mood for holiday festivities, and I can’t get that “Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire” song out of my head until I’ve brought some home and roasted them up.  It’s an illness.  The flavor is slightly sweet, and a little starchy like potatoes.  I love to bake with them, and they are fantastic in a soup.  The pictures below have a little information liked to them, and I’ve put a general recipe for this soup at the end.  Enjoy this for yourselves!

 

PB050022

 

The Recipe :

1 Medium White Onion (in small pieces)

1/2 cup Garlic Cloves (peeled)

2-3 Bay Leaves

1# Chestnuts (Roast, Peel)

3 Cups Chicken Stock

1 Cup Milk

Salt and Pepper to Taste

1 Clove Fermented Black Garlic

Dusting of Nutmeg

 

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.  Score the chestnuts with a small knife, making sure you puncture the skin.  Put the chestnuts in the oven for 25 minutes.  Meanwhile, prepare the garlic and onion.  Sweat the garlic and onion over medium heat with a little oil, until the onion is soft and translucent.  Add the bay leaves and chicken stock.  Increase the heat to bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to maintain the gentle simmer.  When the chestnuts are done roasting (the hull will pull away from the flesh, see photo) remove from oven and let cool slightly.  While the chestnuts are still warm (it will become harder to do as they cool), remove the flesh from the shell, being careful to take the dark inner layer as well.  This layer is bitter, tannic, and not fun to eat.  Toss the chestnut meat in with the onion/garlic/chicken stock and let this simmer for 15 minutes.  Remove the bay leaves, and stir in the milk.  Take the soup to a blender, and process until very smooth.  Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to your liking.  Serve the soup with a dusting of nutmeg and some thin slices of the black garlic (or whatever kind of garnish sounds/tastes good for you).  Enjoy!

Jack Frost nipping at your nose…

-Scott

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