Tag Archives: San Francisco

Striped Bass with Beet Green Ravioli and Citrus Beurre Blanc

This post is a beast.  There’s a lot of information to chew on, but why not?  :)   That’s how much I love you.  We’ll look at three major components, and break them into digestible literary servings.  Part one; the ravioli.  And away we go!

Beet greens are sometimes discarded in the kitchen.  However, if you wash them well and pull the leaves apart from the stem, you’ve got a great braising green that’s flavorful, colorful, and free.

For the ravioli filling, I have a small dice of shallot, fennel, and garlic, along with some currants.  Sweat these aromatics in a little olive oil until they are tender, and then reserve them.

Cut up your clean beet greens, and saute them in the same pan, until they are pretty tender throughout.

Bring all of the first items together in a large bowl, and add the zest of a small lemon, a good dusting of nutmeg, and season with cayenne pepper and salt to taste.

Set the whole mess in a strainer or colander to allow the excess liquid to drain.

Set up a little station with the greens, a little egg wash (one egg whisked with a couple tablespoons of water), the fresh pasta sheets (2), and a couple of ring molds.

Portion out the filing, and brush around the filing with the egg wash.

Press around the filling with the first (smaller) ring mold, to ‘seal’ the egg wash, then cut out the ravioli with the larger ring.

Put a pot of salted water on to boil while your assembling the ravioli, and boil them once they are assembled.  Or, refrigerate (or freeze) for future use.

Here’s what the finished product may look like!  If you are going to serve them right away, go ahead.  If you will serve them once they have cooled and you need to reheat them, just drop them into some boiling water for 30-45 seconds, and you should be golden.

And now, the beurre blanc.  Beurre blanc, is simply a white wine and butter sauce. In this case, we’re replacing some of the white wine with citrus juice.  Here’s the standard ratio that I use for making 2 cups of sauce:

  • 2 cups white wine (here I replaced half the wine with equal parts orange and lemon juice)
  • 2 TBSP. white wine vinegar
  • 4 shallots (diced)
  • 1/2 cup cream
  • 2 cups butter (cold, cut into thumb-sized chunks)

Put the diced shallots, wine, and vinegar into a pot, and reduce au sec.

Here’s a look at au sec.  It means ‘to dry’ or almost dry.  There’s a bad joke in the kitchen which goes; “Hey what comes after au sec?  Awww shit!”  Which is actually true.  If you reduce past the au sec point, ‘aww shit’ will be the first words out of your mouth.  Because you’ve almost certainly burnt the hell out of your sauce.

Add the cream, and reduce it by half.  This is going to help you keep the sauce from breaking.  Technically, if you add cream you’re making a beurre fondue, I think, but I won’t tell if you don’t.  After the cream is reduced, whisk in the butter pieces.  Here’s the only important point about the butter incorporation; you want to keep the sauce warm throughout.  That means you need to keep enough heat on the pot (but not tooo hot) to be able to incorporate the butter with out letting the sauce cool.  Make sense?  You want to keep everything in the pot hot to melt the butter, but not so hot that you break the sauce.

Once you’ve got all the butter incorporated, taste for seasoning.  Add any of the following: a squeeze of lemon, cayenne, salt.  Then strain the sauce.  In a restaurant, I would strain out into a thermos to keep the sauce warm.

At home, I strain out into a coffee mug that I’ve warmed up with hot water.  It will keep the sauce warm long enough for me to get the rest of the plate put together.

With thin skinned fish (like this bass from MA), I prefer to keep the skin on and sear the skin to keep it crisp and delicious looking.

Get the pan nice and hot, with a little vegetable oil.  Lay the fish in, skin-side down, and sear.  Season the flesh side of the fish as well.  At the point you see above, the fish is ready to be basted to finish.

Toss a couple tablespoons of butter into the pan with the fish.  Once it melts, start pouring the hot butter over the top of each fillet until the flesh is cooked (opaque).

Reserve the fish to a paper towel to rest while you put the rest of the plate together.

Quickly reheat the ravioli in some boiling water (with a little salt).

Dress the plates with the citrus butter sauce.  For presentations like this one, I like to put the sauce down first.  I think it looks cleaner, and when you eat the dish, you get some of the sauce in every forkful.

Remove the ravioli with a slotted spoon or spatula, and place them on the edge of the sauce.  Follow with the fish, and garnish.  Here I’ve used a little beet green and some tiny lettuces.

This is the kind of fish dish I could eat all the time.  I love the ravioli’s sweet/savory profile.  The sauce is light and rich all at once, and the fish is delicate and crisp.  There are so many textures and flavors all coming together, I love it.  I hope these pictures inspire you to give this dish a shot (or one like it!).  I’m sure you’ll find it satisfying and delicious.

Here’s to your best!-

-Scotty


Thomas Keller’s Newest Book

Hey there -   If you read this blog even a little, you know I’m a fan of technique over recipes; ratios over complications.  If that sounds like something you might like to delve into, check out this new book.  The Ad Hoc at Home cook book has just recently been released, and it’s delicious.  Like all of Keller’s books, the photos are sexy, the writing is inspirational, and the mofo is heavy.  But this is a buttoned down T.K.  This is the backyard, crack a brewsky, slip into my yacht loafers T.K.  According to insiders, we can thank Chef Dave Cruz for this accessibility.  He spent months with out a day off in order to work on this book, and he put his heart and soul into it.  Bravo, Chef.

Here’s Chef Keller and me.  Chef Cruz is in the background right.

I had a copy signed for a friend, and the inscription reads “It’s all about family”.


Housewarming Recipes –

I had the pleasure of helping a friend host her housewarming party this last weekend.  (Hi Arliene!)  Everyone had a fun night, and we ate a lot of good food.  As requested, I’m providing some of the recipes from that event for the attendees.  If anyone has questions or if the directions seem unclear, feel free to hit me up for clarification(s).  Here we go!

Herbed Goat Cheese

  • 8 oz Fresh Goat Cheese
  • 1 Shallot (minced)
  • 1 Garlic Clove (minced)
  • 1 Tbs. Tarragon (finely chopped)
  • 1 Tbs. Chives (finely chopped)
  • 1 Tbs. Dill (finely chopped)
  • 1 Tbs. Parsley (finely chopped)
  • 2 Tbs. (or less) red wine vinegar
  • 2 Tbs. (more or less) heavy cream
  • Sal and Pepper to taste

Prepare all of the ingredients and fold together using a fork or spoon.  Adjust seasoning to your taste.

Beet ‘Tartare’

  • 3 Red Beets
  • 1 Shallot (minced)
  • 2 Garlic Cloves (minced)
  • 2 Tbs. Capers (rinsed, minced)
  • 2 Tbs. Mayonnaise
  • 2 Tbs. Dijon Mustard
  • 2 Tbs. Parsley (finely chopped)
  • Red wine vinegar to taste
  • Salt and Pepper to taste

Season the beets with oil, salt, and pepper, then roast in a 350 degree oven, turning occasionally, until a pairing knife will pierce the beets with little to no resistance.  Remove, cool, and peel beets.  Make a fine dice of the beets (or pulse in a food processor).  Add the rest of the ingredients and season with the vinegar, salt and pepper to your taste.

Truffled Mushroom Puree

  • 1# Domestic White Button Mushrooms (washed, sliced)
  • 3 Shallots (sliced thinly)
  • 4 sprigs of thyme
  • 1/4 cup tartufato (shaved truffle and mushroom condiment)
  • 2 Tbs. butter
  • Salt and Pepper to taste

Saute the sliced mushrooms in a little oil.  When the mushrooms have a nice brown color, reserve them in a bowl.  Reduce the heat, adding the shallot, butter, and thyme all at once.  Cook on a medium heat until the shallots are soft and translucent.  Pick out the thyme and discard.  Place all the remaining ingredients in a food processor, and pulse until desired consistency is reached.  Season with salt a pepper to your taste.

Pate Choux (BLT Bites)

  • 1 cup water
  • 4 oz. butter
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 4 eggs
  • pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Put the water and butter on a low heat until the butter melts.  Increase the heat to boil the water.  Once the water boils, remove from heat and add the flour all at once.  Stir with a wooden spoon until the flour is totally incorporated.  Add the salt.  Return the pot to a medium heat, cooking while stirring the whole time, until the paste starts to leave a little film on the bottom on the pot (70-90 seconds).  Remove from heat and stir to reduce the temperature.  Once the paste is cool enough to touch for 60 seconds, start stirring in the eggs, one at a time.  Incorporate each egg fully before the next addition.  Portion the paste out on to a parchment lined baking sheet, and bake at 400 until golden brown (30-40 min).  Use for any savory or sweet uses.

Braised Pork (Italian Flavors)

  • 3# pork shoulder (cut into 1 inch cubes)
  • 1 onion (small dice)
  • 3 carrots (small dice)
  • 10 garlic cloves (small dice)
  • 2 Tbs. fennel seeds
  • 1 tsp. crushed chili flakes
  • 1 small can tomato paste
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Prepare the pork and season with salt, pepper, and fennel seed.  Get a saute pan good and hot with a little oil in it.  Sear the cubes of pork being sure not to over crowd the pan.  When all of the pork has been seared, reduce the heat to medium and add the carrots.  When the carrots are half cooked, add the onion and garlic, and continue to sweat the vegetables until tender.  You may need more oil at this point.  Once the vegetables are tender, add the tomato paste and cook for one or two minutes to reduce the raw tomato flavor.  Return the pork to the pan with the vegetables and pour in enough water to cover the pork half way.  Bring this pan to a boil.  Once boiling, turn the contents out into a oven proof (pyrex, or other) dish, cover with foil and braise in the oven until the meat is tender (check after 1 1/2 hours).  Once braised, remove the bay and thyme, strain off excess fat.  Strain off and reserve the cooking liquid.  Break the pork up along with the vegetable matter, adding back in the cooking liquid as needed to achieve desired consistency.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Maple-Chili Braised Chicken (Latin Flavors)

  • 4# chicken leg/thighs
  • 1 onion (small dice)
  • 8 garlic cloves (thinly sliced)
  • 1/2 cup maple syrup
  • 1 tsp. chili flakes
  • 3 Fresno chilies (small dice)
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp. Smoked paprika
  • 1 Tbs. Chili powder
  • 2 Tbs. Ground Cumin
  • 1 Tbs. Cumin Seed
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Season the chicken with salt, pepper, and the ground cumin.  Sear the legs in a large pan over high heat with a little oil.  When all of the chicken has been seared, reduce the heat and add the vegetables, cooking until soft.  When the vegetables are soft, return the chicken to the pan along with the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.  Place everything into an oven safe (pyrex, or similar) dish, cover with foil and braise until the meat is tender (60-90 minutes).  When the dish is cooked, reserve to the refrigerator to cool.  Once cool enough to handle, remove the chicken legs/thighs to a separate dish.  Pick the meat from the bones being careful not to leave any small bones or gristle in with the meat.  Remove the bay leaves and discard.  Strain the vegetables and reserve the cooking liquid.  Add the vegetables to the chicken meat, and combine using the reserved cooking liquid as need to achieve desired consistency.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Risotto(s) click here for method

Start by making the broth:

  • 2 heads fennel (quartered)
  • 2 onions (quartered)
  • 2 oranges (halved)
  • 1 medium can plum tomatoes
  • 6 garlic cloves
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4 sprigs thyme

Put all ingredients in a large pot and cover with cold water by two inches.  Bring to a simmer and keep simmering for 45 minutes.  Strain the liquid and reserve for the risotto, compost the vegetable matter.

Risotto #1

  • 2 cups arborio or canneroli (short grained) rice
  • 1 onion (small dice)
  • 1/2 lemon, juice (replaces wine in basic recipe)
  • 8 cups stock (hot)
  • 1/2 bunch of basil (rolled and sliced fine)
  • 3 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Risotto #2 (Seafood Style)

  • 2 cups risotto rice
  • 1 onion (small dice)
  • 8 cups stock (hot)
  • 8 oz. scallop
  • 8 oz. shell-on shrimp
  • 2 Tbs. chives (sliced small)
  • 1 tsp. lemon zest
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Start by quickly cooking the shrimp over high heat with a little oil.  Let them get a slight rose color, and then reserve them aside.  Put a little more oil in the pot and sear the scallops.  Reserve the scallops with the shrimp.  Toss the onion in now, and cook on a medium heat until soft.  Meanwhile, peel the shrimp and throw the shells in with the cooking liquid.  Slice up the scallop and shrimp.  Follow the procedure for cooking risotto, and finish by turning off the heat, adding the chives, seafood, and lemon zest.  Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Pork Loin (Salsa Verde, Roasted Bell Pepper Salsa)

  • Easiest Pork Loin Ever, just season with equal parts soy sauce and balsamic vinegar, salt and cracked black pepper.  Broil in an oven safe dish, rotating every 8-10 minutes until internal temp is 140-150 degrees (40-50 minutes).  Let it rest as long as possible, but at least 15 minutes before cutting.  Serve with some of the cooking jus.
  • Email me if you want either of those salsa recipes. :)

Molten Chocolate Cake (Ganache, Caramel)

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2 Tbs. cornstarch
  • 12 eggs
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 2 cups butter (1#)
  • 24 oz. semi-sweet chocolate chips
  • 2 Tbs. Pure Vanilla extract
  • 12 Tbs. Ganache (see recipe)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Prepare 12 (6 oz. oven safe) ramekins with a baking spray or butter them well.  Melt the butter in a 4 cup, microwave safe container.  While melting, mix together the sugar and cornstarch in a large bowl.  When butter is at least mostly melted, add chocolate chips and return to the microwave to melt chocolate, stirring every 30 seconds.  Whisk the eggs into the sugar mixture.  Once the chocolate is smooth, stir it into the egg/sugar mixture until well combined.  Pour batter into ramekins, leaving 1/2 inch from the top.  Bake on a sheet tray for 17-20 minutes, or until the top of the cakes have puffed and cracked a little.  remove from the oven and add one Tbs. of ganache to the center of each cake.  Serve hot with a  good 1/4 cup of whipped cream or ice cream.  If the cakes have been baked in advance, microwave for 30-60 seconds.  Any left over batter can be refrigerated for up to a week for future use.

  • Ganache
  • 1 Cup heavy cream
  • 2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 Tbs. butter
  • 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  • heat the cream and chocolate in the microwave, in 30-45 second increments.  once the chocolate is very smooth, stir in the butter, vanilla, and salt.  Reserve for future uses either at room temperature, or refrigerated.

Flourless Chocolate Torte

  • 2 cups (1#) butter
  • 12 eggs
  • 16 oz semi-sweet chocolate chips
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 3 cups cocoa powder (sifted)

Melt the butter in an 8-cup microwave safe container.  Stir in the chocolate to the melted butter.  Return to the microwave in 30 second increments, stirring every time, until the chocolate is smooth.  Meanwhile, beat together the eggs and sugar until well blended.  When the chocolate is ready, whisk it slowly into the egg/sugar mixture.  Beat in the sifted cocoa in three equal parts, incorporating thoroughly.  Divide the batter into pre-greased pans and bake on a sheet pan for 40-45 minutes, depending on the height of the batter in the pan.  The cake should be set, but still moist.  let them cool at room temperature and then store in the refrigerator, or freeze for long term storage.  We iced the torte with ganache, but any number of finished would do nicely.

Port of Call (Cocktail)

  • 2 oz. Gin
  • 2 oz. Ruby port
  • 1 Tbs. Brown sugar
  • 2 Tbs. Sliced ginger
  • 1 Tbs. Fresh lemon juice
  • Lemon Peel Garnish
  • Fresh nutmeg Garnish

Shake the gin, port, sugar, ginger, and juice over ice for at least 10-15 seconds.  Strain out contents and garnish with a dusting of nutmeg and a squeeze of lemon peel.

I hope everyone had a great time, and I hope you make use of any and all of these recipes.  Please feel free to contact me with questions.

All my best-

-Scott


(Re)cooking With Love

Episode two in the series about how to cook great meals from last night’s great meal.  Love it.  This (re)cooking with love was brought to us courtesy of the Castro Farmer’s Market.  As I’ve mentioned in a couple of posts, shopping at the market is a great source of inspiration.  On this occasion, I kind of went overboard.  I grabbed bunches of braising greens, tiny eggplants, vibrant squash, fantastic mushrooms, free range grass fed beef, you get the picture.  We had a huge family style meal that night, and there was plenty of fodder for this episode.  Enjoy!

I’m working with a couple of friends who want to cook big meals once or twice a week and fold those meals into different meals for the rest of the week.  In this endeavor, I hope to highlight different ways to use your food to your advantage.  M.F.K. Fischer notes that she always cooks ‘with one canny eye on the leftovers’.  This resonates with me, and I hope it makes sense to others was well.  It certainly provides a wealth of opportunities.

My years of working in professional kitchens also informs my decisions here.  In that environment, nothing should ever be wasted.  Even though this ideal is often sabotaged (by spoilage, error, and so on), I still have the motivation to utilize every salvageable bit.  And I encourage that posture!

Use it or loose it!

Many Thanks-

-Scotty


From the Farmer’s Market

The Wednesday Farmer’s Market in the Castro (or any farmer’s market, really) always inspires fresh eating and good cooking.  Now that my workplace is only a hundred yards from all the action, I’m doubly excited!  This week I found inspiration from a handful of purveyors, and turned those items into a delightful little dinner.  The story unfolds in pictures below.  But here’s the overview; I was intrigued by the first of the season butternut squash.  So I grabbed a couple.  Prather Ranch was offering spicy Italian sausages, and I like that (squash-sausage) combination.  There were other gorgeous looking vegetables (the peppers, tomatoes, garlic, red onions, figs) along with a couple of flavorful loaves from Crepe and Brioche.  I had a few ideas swimming around by now, and a lot of food to play with.  Here’s how it went down -

We didn’t get to the figs and Teleme cheese which I had planned to enjoy as dessert.  Sigh.  But the meal was a success even without something sweet/savory to finish.

Cooking risotto always reminds me of Chef Louise at N.E.C.I. and cooking huge batches of bouillabaisse risotto for The Bearded Frog in Shelburne, Vermont.  Louise reminded me that, contrary to public opinion, you don’t have to stir the rice endlessly.  In fact, if you do, you may break the grains and end up with porridge.  She encouraged us to finish the risotto by shaking the whole pan rather than stirring wildly, especially when the rice is delicate towards the end of the cooking process.  The bouillabaisse risotto was just a fun dish.  We struggled with the execution and presentation a little, but I’m still in love with the ideas behind the dish, and remember the taste clearly.

Thanks for reading, and try making some risotto(s) for yourself.  There are a multitude of styles, and as many people who will frown on a  dish not made ‘their’ way.  Screw that noise.  Jump in and cook it as you like it.  Finish with butter, cream, olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, plenty of cheese, or nothing at all.  It’s up to you, so enjoy your creation.

Happy Eating, Happy Living -

-Scott


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