Tag Archives: Food Research

Baking with Michael Ruhlman’s ‘Ratio’

So far, I’ve got a little bit of a crush on this book.  The subtitle, “The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking” is absolutely on point.  Here’s the take-home message:

“This book is about the culinary fundamentals, without which, as Esoffier said, nothing of importance can be accomplished.  Nothing.  But because it’s about the fundamentals, it’s also about all the thing you can do with those fundamentals, about variation and improvisation.  While it’s filled with recipes, I like to think of it as an anti-recipe book, a book that teaches you and frees you from the need to follow”.

I think I’ll keep finding interesting little bits as I get further and further into the reading.  For now, I’ve been inspired by one of the first chapters about bread.  The ratio is simple, 5:3, 5 parts flour to 3 parts water.  Of course, there are limitless variations, and some techniques must be observed for good bread making.  But, that simple ratio was the basis for the following loaves.  A good pinch of salt and a package of yeast later, and we were ready to roll.  The story is below in pictures.  I can’t recommend this book with more enthusiasm.  Anyone who is curious about cooking / baking / science / recipes, will find this a fascinating read that will inform the way you think about food and cooking.  Cheers!


Spiced Chocolate Chip Cookies

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Here’s my second effort for the Food52 Chocolate Cookie recipe contest.  The basis for this recipe comes by way of the former Restaurant Vintage Park in Kearney, Nebraska.  I used to make a metric butt-load of these guys.  I think it’s the best chocolate chip recipe ever; not too crisp, not over cake-like.  Just right.  This version was inspired by a Cinco de Mayo fiesta I attended a couple of Cinco de Mayos ago.  Chili, spices, aromatics, cocoa nibs and walnuts sounded delicious to me.  It was a crowd pleasing treat, and I’ve made them a few times since.

This recipe is made in a style called the ‘cream method’.  In the cream method, the butter (or shortening) and sugar(s) are mixed together until they are light and fluffy.  The other ‘wet’ ingredients are added (eggs, vanilla, etc.), and then the dry ingredients are added.

Here’s the recipe – Yields 1.5 dozen good sized (2-2.5 oz) cookies

  • 1 Cup Butter
  • ¾ Cup Packed Brown Sugar
  • ¾ Cup Granulated White Sugar
  • 2 Eggs
  • 2 tsp. Pure Vanilla Extract
  • ½ tsp. Salt
  • 1 tsp. Corriander Seed
  • 1 tsp. Cummin Seed
  • 1 tsp. Fennel Seed
  • ¼ tsp. Chili Powder
  • ¼ tsp. Cayenne Pepper
  • ¼ tsp. Smoked Paprika
  • 1 tsp. Baking Soda
  • 2 ¼ Cups All Purpose Flour
  • ¼ Cup Cocoa Nibs
  • 1 Cup Chopped Walnuts
  • 2 Cups Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees.  Cream together the butter and sugars in a standing mixer or with a hand held beater until light and fluffy.  Slowly incorporate one egg at a time until well mixed, then mix in the vanilla extract.  Using a spice grinder, finely grind the cummin, corriander, and fennel seeds.  Reserve this spice mixture to a medium bowl and continue adding the remaining spice powders, flour, salt, and baking soda.  Whisk together with a fork or wire whisk until the mixture is well combined.  Slowly add this dry mixture to the creamed butter and sugar mixture using the lowest setting on your mixer, or by hand with a wooden spoon or spatula.  Once well combined, add the nuts, cocoa nibs, and chocolate chips all at once and mix until just incorporated.  Portion out the dough and slightly flatten the cookies to 1/2 inch.  Bake for 10 minutes, rotating after 5 minutes for an even bake.  Reserve to a wire rack for cooling.

These are the kind of cookies that I can’t have sitting around the house, because I will eat them until I make myself uncomfortable.  Try them yourself, and let me know if you can eat just one.

Cheers my dears – -

-ScottPA170014


Chocolate-Almond-Anise Cookies

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Round one in my submissions to Food52 for their collaborative cookbook effort.  This weeks challenge topics; Chocolate Cookies, and Ham ‘n Cheese.  I’m gunning for the Cookies.  The basis for this recipe comes from the Baking with Julia series.  An old favorite and standby.

Here’s the recipe – Yields about 16 good sized (2-2.5 oz) cookies

  • 5 TBS. Butter
  • 8 oz. Semi-Sweet Chocolate
  • 2 TBS. Anise Seeds
  • ¼ Cup Slivered Almonds
  • ¾ Cup Packed Brown Sugar
  • ¼ Cup Granulated White Sugar
  • 2 Eggs
  • 1 tsp. Pure Vanilla Extract
  • ¼ Cup Cocoa Powder
  • 1 Cup All-Purpose Flour
  • 1 tsp. Baking Powder
  • ½ tsp. Salt
  • 2 TBS. Espresso Powder
  • 1 1/2 Cups Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips
  • ½ Cup Cocoa Nibs

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.  In a microwave-safe container, melt the butter on high for 10-15 seconds.  Stir in the 8 oz. of chocolate and return to the microwave 10 to 15 seconds at a time, stirring after each turn until smooth.  Meanwhile, toast the slivered almonds and anise seeds together in one small pan until the almonds take a little color and the aroma is pleasant.  The chocolate should be melted by now.  Let the chocolate and almond/anise seeds rest while you measure out the dry ingredients (cocoa, flour, baking powder, salt, and espresso powder) into a bowl and whisk with a fork or whisk to combine and set aside.  Turn out the melted chocolate into a mixing bowl, or the bowl of your standing mixer.  Measure in both sugars, and mix on a lower speed until well combined.  On a low speed, incorporate one egg at a time.  Add the vanilla extract and mix well.  Stop mixing, and add the combined dry ingredients all at once.  Use a wooden spoon or spatula to combine the dry ingredients fully.  Finally, incorporate the almond, anise, chocolate chips, and cocoa nibs.

As you portion out the dough, you’ll want to flatten the cookies slightly to somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 of an inch.  Bake on a parchment line cookie sheet for 9 minutes, rotating the tray after 5 minutes for an even bake.  Remove to a wire rack and let cool before enjoying.

These cookies have a very deep chocolate flavor, and they love a good cup of coffee, or a tall glass of milk.

Cheers, and let me know if you like them!

-Scott

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Cooking Vocabulary and Notes (Risotto)-

v  Risotto 101 –

  • Risotto is a method for cooking rice (or other grains / starches) and  there are a few simple steps, with lots of possible variations.
    • Step One:  Sweat the aromatics (onion, garlic, leeks, etc.) until translucent.  I use about half an onion for each cup of rice.
    • Step Two:  Set the cooking liquid (this should have great flavor) on to simmer.  You will need liquid at four times the volume of rice.  (4:1  liquid to rice)
    • Step Three:  Add the rice and stir to coat the grains with oil, and cook the kernels to the point the Italians call ‘al occio’, which means when you break the rice in half it will look like an eye.
    • Step Four:  Deglaze the pot with wine (white or red).  You should add enough wine to just cover the bottom of the pan.  Reduce this liquid by half.
    • Step Five:  Start incorporating the liquid with the rice on a medium heat.  Make the additions of liquid in measurements equal to the volume of rice.  For example, if you started with 1 cup of rice, you would add the cooking liquid 1 cup at a time.
    • Step Six:  Keep stirring the rice to keep from sticking, also developing the starch.  When you can drag the spoon or spatula through the rice and the path of the spoon isn’t filled in by the rice, it’s time to add more liquid.
    • Step Seven:  Before adding the final amount of liquid, test a little of the rice to be certain it won’t over cook from adding the total amount left.  Make the last addition of liquid, and rather than constantly stirring, shake the pot and stir just the outer edge because at this point the rice is delicate and aggressive stirring will break the grains.
    • Step Eight:  Check for doneness, add more liquid if needed.  Finish by adding a little dairy (butter, cream, cheese) correct the seasoning (salt and pepper), decide if it needs a touch of acidity (lemon juice?) and serve quickly.

Risotto is endlessly flexible.  You can add vegetables or proteins to the cooking process, use different wine/spirits, use short-grain rice or a whole world of other grains, garnish, sauce, plate, and present in many many ways.  Have fun with it and don’t be afraid to try some new flavors in combination.

Be bold, and be brave!

-Scotty


Work your Pantry

Alices Book

Alice's Book

Stocking the pantry or ‘larder’ as people used to call it, is an integral part of running a successful kitchen.  Basically, one gets into the habit of keeping a handful of staples around.  Those staples should be items that you find yourself using, or missing when they are absent.  Two example; I love olives, and I always keep a few kinds around, and when I’m out of anchovies, I curse myself for not thinking ahead and replenishing the anchovy stash (curses!).  These are two items that I keep around because I use them all the time.  They are part of my Pantry.  I like to capitalize it for significance.

Below is a long list of items that Alice Waters believes (I happen to agree) constitutes a well-stocked pantry.  This list is a great place to start thinking about how you would like to start, or perhaps remodel, your own larder.  I practiced this exercise with one of my clients a couple of weeks ago, and his cooking has been made (at least potentially!) more fluid for having these items on hand.

Pantry Staples

~  N.B. If multiple types of an item are offered, I’m simply naming several types, one or more of which will often suffice ~

-Olive oil (and at least one other ‘high smoke point’ oil as well)

-Vinegars (cider, balsamic, rice, sherry, red wine, etc.)

-Salt (kosher, flavored, fancy)

-Black peppercorns (whole – and a grinder)

-Spices (anise, bay, caraway, cardamom, cayenne, chili flakes, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, clove, fennel seed, ginger, garam masala, harissa, juniper, madras curry, nutmeg, paprika, sesame, smoked paprika, star anise, turmeric, for example)

-Pasta (short, long, favorites)

-Polenta /cornmeal

-Rice (short, long, wild, brown)

-Dried beans

-Canned tomato product (paste, whole, juice)

-Anchovies

-Capers

-Crackers (a couple of types)

-Flours (all purpose and whole wheat, bread)

-Sugars (white, brown, sanding)

-Baking powder / soda

-Vanilla (beans / extract)

-Yeast

-Jams / preserves / syrups

-Wine (red and white)

-Tobasco and Worchestershire

Perishable Staples

-Garlic (whole heads)

-Onions (white, red, Spanish)

-Shallots (or leeks, or chives)

-Celery

-Carrots

-Olives (several types)

-Fresh herbs (thyme, sage, rosemary, maybe parsley or cilantro if it will be used up)

-Eggs (grade AA large)

-Lemons (also limes, oranges)

-Mustards (Dijon, whole grain)

-Cheeses (parmesan, soft and firm types)

-Nuts (almond, hazel, walnut, pine, etc.)

-Chicken broth (frozen homemade, or bought)

-Butter (unsalted sweet)

-Milk (skim, as you wish, heavy cream)

-Bread (as you like it)

-Potatoes (mealy or waxy)

-Lunch meats / Sausages

Pantry Staples are good for a year or so.  Perishable staples are going to the light much more quickly.  Some will keep for months; others will meet their end much more quickly.  Always smell and taste before jumping into a recipe using perishable staples which haven’t been used in a while.

As Lady Alice offers, with these (or similar) items on the shelf, you will find that you have a wide vocabulary of flavors and the building blocks for dozens of dishes to chose from when you are facing down the eternal question; what’s for dinner.

Pantry and Party’n are the same word.  Think about it.  Keep cooking, keep thinking – -

-Scotty


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