Tag Archives: Food Research

Baking with a Levain Starter

Over my last visit home, I was lucky enough to spend the afternoon with my paternal Grandmother.  She started a cafe in Mason City, Nebraska about fifty years ago, and I’m pretty sure that my penchant for restaurant life is directly connected to her genetic makeup.  Thanks, Grandma Doris, it’s been a great ride so far!  I mentioned that we’ve been baking a lot with a levain starter here at home, and she let me know that her own mother had kept a starter around for baking as well.  We talked a little about the care and feeding of a starter, and using it in pancakes and waffles for leavening and a little tang.  I guess my love of baking is plucked from my family tree as well.

Let’s take a look at what this kind of bread baking looks like.

Once you’ve build a happy levain, the bread baking process is really pretty straight forward.  You need bread flour, water, your starter, and salt.  That’s it.  For this bread I used a garnish of pepper jack cheese, but anything goes.

Invest in a scale if you plan to be doing any baking on a regular basis.  Just a thought.  Most baking recipes are really ratios, and you will get weights for ingredients instead of volume measures.  That being said, most home-baker recipes don’t go down that path.  For this method I take my standard ratio for bread, 5:3 (five parts bread flour to three parts water) and replace 10% of each portion by the starter.  In other words I use a ratio of 4:2:2 – Flour, water, starter.  There are some variables (like all bread baking) but this has been very successful for me.

Measure out the flour, and then the starter and water.

Don’t forget the salt.  A couple of good pinches will work for most recipes.  Not only does the salt help your bread taste better, it also help add color, slows the fermentation process slightly (developing more flavor), and  helps to strengthen the gluten proteins which give the bread structure, texture, and shape.

Bring all of the ingredients together with a dough hook attachment, working on a low speed.

As the dough comes together, it will start pulling away from the sides of your mixing bowl.  If this doesn’t happen, you may need to add a little more water, but be patient, and see if it will come together on its own.

As the gluten develops, the dough will climb up the dough hook and start to make interesting shapes as it gets knocked around in the mixing bowl.

When you are curious about the state of your dough, stop everything and take a look.  Grab a small piece and pull it around a little.  If you can stretch it thinly so that light passes through it, and the gluten strands keep the dough held together without tearing, you’re in a good place to continue the process.  This is called making (pulling) a window, by who bake bread for money.

At this point, get your garnish ready too.  I try not to add extra bits until the gluten has developed.  Adding non-flour items often breaks the gluten up, resulting in a more dense, less risen bread.

Here I’ve incorporated the cheese, and shaped the dough into a ball.  I covered this with a towel, and let it rest.  The yeast needs to feast, and make the dough double in size before we move on.

While you wait for the dough to get going, feed your levain.  When my levain is pretty active (very bubbly) I feed it in a 1:1:1 ratio of levain, water, and flour.  However, if I haven’t fed it in a while, or it seems a little sleepy, I feed it a little more with a 1:2:2 ratio.

Once the dough has doubled, I scale it into two pieces.  Another indication that the dough is ready to be shaped is that when you poke about an inch into the dough, the indentation (mostly) remains.

Piece one will rest in this big ceramic bowl.

Piece two got divided and shaped into longer loaves, resting on a well floured board.

Then they both got tucked in for a little nap.

Now the dough has doubled again, and a poke with your finger should get pushed back out pretty well.

We have a ceramic baking stone that I like to use.  I also have a pan that I throw a little water onto to create a steamy environment for the first part of the baking.

Scoring the bread is an important step.  this allows the bread to expand as much as it needs to, and also provides more visual and textural interest.  I use a large serrated knife if I don’t have a nice new razor blade around.  For cheese breads, I also like to add more cheese right on top of the bread.

Pop them into the oven!  I’m baking at 400 degrees with these free form loaves.

I can’t help myself from checking on the baking process throughout.

Here are these two little guys, fresh from the oven.  The larger loaf came out much the same, as you can see below.

When I’m curious about whether the bread is ready, I often just take its temperature.  Anything over 165 degrees is good for me.  That’s really about all there is to baking bread.  It’s a straightforward practice that yields really delicious end results.

Of course, you need to get a feel for some of the finer points, but that will come with practice.  Baking, like other things in the kitchen is a meditative time for me.  You can’t really rush things along; they work at their own pace and all you can do is be responsive.  There are things in life that will require your attention and yield great satisfaction.  Cooking, baking, and enjoying the fruits of that labor are some of my most satisfying.

Here’s to feeding yourself body, mind, and soul -

-Scott


Striped Bass with Beet Green Ravioli and Citrus Beurre Blanc

This post is a beast.  There’s a lot of information to chew on, but why not?  :)   That’s how much I love you.  We’ll look at three major components, and break them into digestible literary servings.  Part one; the ravioli.  And away we go!

Beet greens are sometimes discarded in the kitchen.  However, if you wash them well and pull the leaves apart from the stem, you’ve got a great braising green that’s flavorful, colorful, and free.

For the ravioli filling, I have a small dice of shallot, fennel, and garlic, along with some currants.  Sweat these aromatics in a little olive oil until they are tender, and then reserve them.

Cut up your clean beet greens, and saute them in the same pan, until they are pretty tender throughout.

Bring all of the first items together in a large bowl, and add the zest of a small lemon, a good dusting of nutmeg, and season with cayenne pepper and salt to taste.

Set the whole mess in a strainer or colander to allow the excess liquid to drain.

Set up a little station with the greens, a little egg wash (one egg whisked with a couple tablespoons of water), the fresh pasta sheets (2), and a couple of ring molds.

Portion out the filing, and brush around the filing with the egg wash.

Press around the filling with the first (smaller) ring mold, to ‘seal’ the egg wash, then cut out the ravioli with the larger ring.

Put a pot of salted water on to boil while your assembling the ravioli, and boil them once they are assembled.  Or, refrigerate (or freeze) for future use.

Here’s what the finished product may look like!  If you are going to serve them right away, go ahead.  If you will serve them once they have cooled and you need to reheat them, just drop them into some boiling water for 30-45 seconds, and you should be golden.

And now, the beurre blanc.  Beurre blanc, is simply a white wine and butter sauce. In this case, we’re replacing some of the white wine with citrus juice.  Here’s the standard ratio that I use for making 2 cups of sauce:

  • 2 cups white wine (here I replaced half the wine with equal parts orange and lemon juice)
  • 2 TBSP. white wine vinegar
  • 4 shallots (diced)
  • 1/2 cup cream
  • 2 cups butter (cold, cut into thumb-sized chunks)

Put the diced shallots, wine, and vinegar into a pot, and reduce au sec.

Here’s a look at au sec.  It means ‘to dry’ or almost dry.  There’s a bad joke in the kitchen which goes; “Hey what comes after au sec?  Awww shit!”  Which is actually true.  If you reduce past the au sec point, ‘aww shit’ will be the first words out of your mouth.  Because you’ve almost certainly burnt the hell out of your sauce.

Add the cream, and reduce it by half.  This is going to help you keep the sauce from breaking.  Technically, if you add cream you’re making a beurre fondue, I think, but I won’t tell if you don’t.  After the cream is reduced, whisk in the butter pieces.  Here’s the only important point about the butter incorporation; you want to keep the sauce warm throughout.  That means you need to keep enough heat on the pot (but not tooo hot) to be able to incorporate the butter with out letting the sauce cool.  Make sense?  You want to keep everything in the pot hot to melt the butter, but not so hot that you break the sauce.

Once you’ve got all the butter incorporated, taste for seasoning.  Add any of the following: a squeeze of lemon, cayenne, salt.  Then strain the sauce.  In a restaurant, I would strain out into a thermos to keep the sauce warm.

At home, I strain out into a coffee mug that I’ve warmed up with hot water.  It will keep the sauce warm long enough for me to get the rest of the plate put together.

With thin skinned fish (like this bass from MA), I prefer to keep the skin on and sear the skin to keep it crisp and delicious looking.

Get the pan nice and hot, with a little vegetable oil.  Lay the fish in, skin-side down, and sear.  Season the flesh side of the fish as well.  At the point you see above, the fish is ready to be basted to finish.

Toss a couple tablespoons of butter into the pan with the fish.  Once it melts, start pouring the hot butter over the top of each fillet until the flesh is cooked (opaque).

Reserve the fish to a paper towel to rest while you put the rest of the plate together.

Quickly reheat the ravioli in some boiling water (with a little salt).

Dress the plates with the citrus butter sauce.  For presentations like this one, I like to put the sauce down first.  I think it looks cleaner, and when you eat the dish, you get some of the sauce in every forkful.

Remove the ravioli with a slotted spoon or spatula, and place them on the edge of the sauce.  Follow with the fish, and garnish.  Here I’ve used a little beet green and some tiny lettuces.

This is the kind of fish dish I could eat all the time.  I love the ravioli’s sweet/savory profile.  The sauce is light and rich all at once, and the fish is delicate and crisp.  There are so many textures and flavors all coming together, I love it.  I hope these pictures inspire you to give this dish a shot (or one like it!).  I’m sure you’ll find it satisfying and delicious.

Here’s to your best!-

-Scotty


Bacon Rosemary Biscuits

Biscuits can be glorious, right?  Flaky, buttery, soft and crisp at the same time.  Essentially; biscuits are little gifts every time you make them.  For my holiday festivities this year, I opted for a slam-dunk combination.  Great biscuit + rosemary + bacon = ridiculous biscuits.

I always look to Fannie Farmer for my homey baked goods.  She never disappoints, and with over 1,100 pages of recipes, the book is pretty comprehensive.  The recipe I used here is a combination of two different recipes (Baking Powder Biscuits, p. 764, and Cream Biscuits, p. 765)  The first uses shortening and milk, the second, from time spent with culinary icon, James Beard, uses melted butter and cream.

Here’s my hybrid:  Yield about 12 2″ biscuits with extra for chefs treats

  • 4 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 4 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 tsp. baking soda
  • 1 TPSP. sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. freshly cracked pepper
  • 6 oz. cold butter (small pieces)
  • 2 stips bacon (cooked well, small dice)
  • 1/2 onion, (small dice, sweated in left over bacon fat)
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 1 cup heavy cream

For garnish

  • 2 TBSP. finely chopped rosemary
  • 1 TBS. coarse (kosher or other) salt

If you know how to make biscuits, I won’t bore you.  If you have never heard of the ‘Biscuit Method’, check out this link.  Here’s the basics for this recipe.

Brown the bacon and onions then cut up the bacon.  Reserve those bits on a paper towel to absorb extra fat.

Put all of the dry ingredients together in a big bowl.  Whisk that around a bit with a fork (or whisk…).

Take the little pieces of cold butter and incorporate them into the dry mix quickly, using just your fingers with a kind of smooshing / rubbing technique.  Stop when all of the butter pieces are no bigger than a small pea.

Use a fork to stir in the bacon and onions, and then to incorporate all of the liquid at once.

Turn out onto a well floured surface and knead slightly to bring together.

Roll to a 1″ thickness, and cut into squares or punch out with cutter.

Brush the tops with cream or buttermilk, then sprinkle the rosemary and coarse salt on top.

Bake on a parchment lined baking sheet at 425 degrees for 15 minutes or so, until the tops are golden and delicious looking.  You may need to rotate the pan half-way through depending on your oven.

My friends and I ate these little guys with prime rib on Christmas night, and then again with a little honey for breakfast.  Biscuits are a super easy treat to bring together, and the homemade, fresh-baked goodness translates into every bite.

Happy Eating, Happy Living!

-Scott


Thomas Keller’s Newest Book

Hey there -   If you read this blog even a little, you know I’m a fan of technique over recipes; ratios over complications.  If that sounds like something you might like to delve into, check out this new book.  The Ad Hoc at Home cook book has just recently been released, and it’s delicious.  Like all of Keller’s books, the photos are sexy, the writing is inspirational, and the mofo is heavy.  But this is a buttoned down T.K.  This is the backyard, crack a brewsky, slip into my yacht loafers T.K.  According to insiders, we can thank Chef Dave Cruz for this accessibility.  He spent months with out a day off in order to work on this book, and he put his heart and soul into it.  Bravo, Chef.

Here’s Chef Keller and me.  Chef Cruz is in the background right.

I had a copy signed for a friend, and the inscription reads “It’s all about family”.


Let’s Make Soup

I’ve been eating this really versatile curried carrot and lentil soup for the last couple of days, and I got inspired to chat about soups in general.  Good soup is a gentle indulgence.  Few plates of food can be as satisfying, and few spoken about with such reverence, passion, and gusto.  I don’t want to pretend that I know what makes soup great, or even what makes a great soup.  Soups, like all foods, are intimate, personal affairs colored by experience and preference.  But I will speak to the general practice, or technique of soup, through this example of my recent product.

Like most of my cooking, soup starts with ingredients that happen to be staring me in the face.  This is my ‘best guess’ recipe for the carrot-lentil-curry soup, and an explanation of both how this soup happened for me, and how it might happen for you.

 

1 large red onion (rough chop)

2 cups carrot (thin slices)

2 TBSP garlic (rough chop)

2 TBSP red curry paste

1 tsp chili flakes

1 bunch rosemary (in cheesecloth)

1 cup lentils

1 qt chicken stock

1 can diced tomatoes

1 tsp red wine vinegar

1 TBSP butter

Salt and Cayenne pepper to taste

As you may know by now, I’m not huge on recipes.  To borrow a phrase; no one ever steps in the same recipe twice, for it’s not the same food, and they aren’t the same person.  And so, with cooking, it’s all about looking, responding, and using techniques.  As a side bar, I’ve been listening to Tim Ferriss’ audio book, “The 4-Hour Work Week“, and have subliminally been motivated into thinking in acronyms.  I didn’t realize it until just now.  Thanks Tim, great stuff so far!  EDGE is a decent acronym for cooking well.

E-valuate

D-ecide

G-ather

E-xecute

Evaluate the ingredients, the weather /season, consider who you might be cooking for (your audience), and whatever else informs your cooking.  Based on your evaluation, Decide which direction to take the ingredients (bisque, stew, curry, chowder, puree, broth, etc.).  Gather the items that you need, if that requires shopping or going to the pantry, and literally bring them all together (mise en place).  Then, Execute your vision using a short list of techniques.

For example:  Knowing that I wanted to make a soup (because it was a crisp San Francisco day and soup sounded satisfying), I opened the refrigerator with that in mind.  We had carrots from our last CSA delivery.  Seeing the carrots reminded me of a great Thai curry, carrot, coconut soup I used to make a lot, so I started thinking about that soup and poked around for more good stuff.  Red onion, garlic, red Thai curry paste, fresh herbs, chicken stock, lentils, not the soup I used to make, but good soup stuffs for sure.  So I brought all the ingredients out to play and proceeded with what I would call “Soup Basics”.

Step One – Sweat the veggies and / or aromatics.

This is the basis of so much cooking.  Cut your aromatics (onions, and garlic here) and cook them with plenty of oil over a medium low heat until they are soft and translucent.  BUT, since carrots are a major part of the soup, I started by cooking the carrots first, and adding the aromatics once the carrots were mostly tender.  I also add the curry paste here to cook it and develop the flavor, as well as the chili flakes to really bring out the spice and infuse it throughout the whole soup.  Could just just throw it all in together?  Sure.  I mean, were making soup here, a puree of vegetable matter soup.  But, I cook the way I cook.  I feel like the vegetables will all be uniformly soft and cooked through if I cook them this way.  Please suit yourselves.

Step Two – Add liquid

I just gave my copy of Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio to a friend.  For the number folks out there (and I see you), this is a well made book that will offer insights into cooking techniques and principals.  I didn’t measure when I made this soup, but I’m sure the ratio of liquid to solids is very close to the ratio you can find in his book.

Once the vegetables were soft, I added the chicken stock and then the lentils and fresh herbs.  I brought to all of this to a boil, reduced to a simmer, put a lid on it, and went for a jog.  When I get back the lentils were soft, and ready to roll.  At this point, I could have served the soup as a hearty lentil stew of sorts, but that wasn’t where I was headed.

Step Three – Correct the consistency and seasoning.

So, instead of the lentil stew looking back at me, I wanted a creamy puree.  I wanted to add a little more depth of flavor, along with some color and moisture at this point, so that’s when the can of tomato bits came to the party.  I removed the bundle of herbs and puree the soup until I was satisfied with the consistency.  Then I tasted for balance.  For me, the soup needed a little more bite of acid and a good punch of salt.  I also felt like a little chunk of butter would be welcome.  For me, it’s almost always welcome, let’s be real.

I hope that you found some inspiration for your own cooking in this recap.  Please contact me if you make this recipe, and let me know how it came out in your kitchen.

Eat well, and Be well-

-Scott


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