Tag Archives: Coaching

Let’s Make Soup

I’ve been eating this really versatile curried carrot and lentil soup for the last couple of days, and I got inspired to chat about soups in general.  Good soup is a gentle indulgence.  Few plates of food can be as satisfying, and few spoken about with such reverence, passion, and gusto.  I don’t want to pretend that I know what makes soup great, or even what makes a great soup.  Soups, like all foods, are intimate, personal affairs colored by experience and preference.  But I will speak to the general practice, or technique of soup, through this example of my recent product.

Like most of my cooking, soup starts with ingredients that happen to be staring me in the face.  This is my ‘best guess’ recipe for the carrot-lentil-curry soup, and an explanation of both how this soup happened for me, and how it might happen for you.

 

1 large red onion (rough chop)

2 cups carrot (thin slices)

2 TBSP garlic (rough chop)

2 TBSP red curry paste

1 tsp chili flakes

1 bunch rosemary (in cheesecloth)

1 cup lentils

1 qt chicken stock

1 can diced tomatoes

1 tsp red wine vinegar

1 TBSP butter

Salt and Cayenne pepper to taste

As you may know by now, I’m not huge on recipes.  To borrow a phrase; no one ever steps in the same recipe twice, for it’s not the same food, and they aren’t the same person.  And so, with cooking, it’s all about looking, responding, and using techniques.  As a side bar, I’ve been listening to Tim Ferriss’ audio book, “The 4-Hour Work Week“, and have subliminally been motivated into thinking in acronyms.  I didn’t realize it until just now.  Thanks Tim, great stuff so far!  EDGE is a decent acronym for cooking well.

E-valuate

D-ecide

G-ather

E-xecute

Evaluate the ingredients, the weather /season, consider who you might be cooking for (your audience), and whatever else informs your cooking.  Based on your evaluation, Decide which direction to take the ingredients (bisque, stew, curry, chowder, puree, broth, etc.).  Gather the items that you need, if that requires shopping or going to the pantry, and literally bring them all together (mise en place).  Then, Execute your vision using a short list of techniques.

For example:  Knowing that I wanted to make a soup (because it was a crisp San Francisco day and soup sounded satisfying), I opened the refrigerator with that in mind.  We had carrots from our last CSA delivery.  Seeing the carrots reminded me of a great Thai curry, carrot, coconut soup I used to make a lot, so I started thinking about that soup and poked around for more good stuff.  Red onion, garlic, red Thai curry paste, fresh herbs, chicken stock, lentils, not the soup I used to make, but good soup stuffs for sure.  So I brought all the ingredients out to play and proceeded with what I would call “Soup Basics”.

Step One – Sweat the veggies and / or aromatics.

This is the basis of so much cooking.  Cut your aromatics (onions, and garlic here) and cook them with plenty of oil over a medium low heat until they are soft and translucent.  BUT, since carrots are a major part of the soup, I started by cooking the carrots first, and adding the aromatics once the carrots were mostly tender.  I also add the curry paste here to cook it and develop the flavor, as well as the chili flakes to really bring out the spice and infuse it throughout the whole soup.  Could just just throw it all in together?  Sure.  I mean, were making soup here, a puree of vegetable matter soup.  But, I cook the way I cook.  I feel like the vegetables will all be uniformly soft and cooked through if I cook them this way.  Please suit yourselves.

Step Two – Add liquid

I just gave my copy of Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio to a friend.  For the number folks out there (and I see you), this is a well made book that will offer insights into cooking techniques and principals.  I didn’t measure when I made this soup, but I’m sure the ratio of liquid to solids is very close to the ratio you can find in his book.

Once the vegetables were soft, I added the chicken stock and then the lentils and fresh herbs.  I brought to all of this to a boil, reduced to a simmer, put a lid on it, and went for a jog.  When I get back the lentils were soft, and ready to roll.  At this point, I could have served the soup as a hearty lentil stew of sorts, but that wasn’t where I was headed.

Step Three – Correct the consistency and seasoning.

So, instead of the lentil stew looking back at me, I wanted a creamy puree.  I wanted to add a little more depth of flavor, along with some color and moisture at this point, so that’s when the can of tomato bits came to the party.  I removed the bundle of herbs and puree the soup until I was satisfied with the consistency.  Then I tasted for balance.  For me, the soup needed a little more bite of acid and a good punch of salt.  I also felt like a little chunk of butter would be welcome.  For me, it’s almost always welcome, let’s be real.

I hope that you found some inspiration for your own cooking in this recap.  Please contact me if you make this recipe, and let me know how it came out in your kitchen.

Eat well, and Be well-

-Scott


Cooking Vocabulary and Notes (Pan Sauces)

v  Chicken Bits (breast or leg) with Caramelized Onion Pan Sauce

  • Season the chicken (salt and fresh pepper) and sauté (presentation side down) over high heat (remember the oil moving around -shimmering- in the pan is an indication of the right temperature.)
  • Reserve the chicken to another container while you sauté the chopped onions, giving them plenty of caramelized color and aroma
  • Deglaze the pan with white (or other) wine, and reduce that liquid by half.
  • Return the chicken to the pan and continue cooking, adding more liquid (stock, or water) as needed.
  • Remove the chicken and adjust the pan sauce (we’ve used balsamic vinegar, honey, and plenty of salt).  Finish with a little butter swirled in the pan, correct any seasoning issues, and serve it forth!

Important bits here:

  1. Don’t be scared to use a little oil, even in a non-stick pan.  The difference in color, flavor, and texture will all be enhanced by using a touch of oil.
  2. Have all of your ‘mise en place’ ready before you start cooking.  You’ll be much more efficient, and your cooking will be more organized.
  3. Saute – You love it.  But it can be smoky, be ready to open up the house
  4. To Deglaze, is to introduce a liquid to a hot cooking surface in order to release the cooked-on bits from the surface.  We used white wine, and reduced it by half.
  5. Cooking with alcohol does a few nice things.  First, the aromatics of wine are pleasant, and add a depth to your cooking.  Second, the volatile molecules in the alcohol accelerate and accentuate (carry) the aroma of the dish up to your nose.  Third, the acidity in wine is almost always a welcome addition.
  6. Be certain to reduce (evaporate) the wine at least by half.  Raw alcohol has a bitterness which is not always welcome, and reduction will burn the alcohol away.
  7. Braising is a ‘moist-heat’ method of cooking where the item being braised is covered 1/3 to ½ in a liquid, and cooked in a closed container.  Stewing is the same as braising, except the item being stewed is covered entirely by the stewing liquid.  There are also other steps in these processes, such as browning, deglazing, sweating aromatics, reducing, thickening, and so on.
  8. Always taste.  We adjusted the sauce with a little sweetness and finished with butter.  The butter added a slight thickening, a glossy appearance, and a delicious rounding out of any sharp (bitter, acidic) flavors.  Yum!

Get this method down, and employ it with different proteins and vegetables -

Happy Cooking!

-Scott


Cooking Vocabulary and Notes (Brussels Sprouts)

Here’s how to build some charred- garlicy sprouts:

v  Brussels Sprouts

  • Start by cleaning the sprouts (removing the discolored core end)
  • You could start the (boiling salted) blanching water at this time as well.  Remember to taste the water for salt level.
  • Cut an ‘x’ into the core of each sprout so that the core and the outside will cook /be done at the same time.
  • Blanch the sprouts until they exhibit very little (or no) resistance to a paring knife
  • Drain and set them aside
  • Get a sauté pan hot with a little oil in it (high-heat, little-fat is right to sauté).  Sear the sprouts, getting a nice amount of charred color.
  • Add a little soy sauce to the pan while tossing (or stirring) the sprouts.
  • Remove from the heat and add the (pre-chopped) garlic.
  • Check for seasoning and adjust.
  • Enjoy!

Okay, a few of the key concepts from above:

  1. Blanch -   To blanch is to cook in a large amount of boiling, salted water.  This technique serves two purposes; blanching will set, or fix, the color of vegetables (especially important for the green ones), and blanching will bring the vegetables to the desired texture.  Remember, if the blanching time will be very short, the water should be heavily seasoned.  Less seasoning is needed if the blanch is long.  Also, sometimes it will be appropriate to ‘Shock’ the vegetables in an ice water bath in order to stop the texture from turning to mush.  I’m not a fan, but sometimes it’s handy.
  2. Saute – Literally ‘to jump’ in French.  Use high heat and a small amount of fat to sauté.  This will caramelize and char vegetables and proteins.
  3. Sweat – The kinder, gentler sauté.  Use medium heat with slightly more oil.  To sweat the vegetable is to bring out its sweetness, and often change the appearance to something more translucent.

Go Get It!

-Scotty


Cooking Vocabulary and Notes (Risotto)-

v  Risotto 101 –

  • Risotto is a method for cooking rice (or other grains / starches) and  there are a few simple steps, with lots of possible variations.
    • Step One:  Sweat the aromatics (onion, garlic, leeks, etc.) until translucent.  I use about half an onion for each cup of rice.
    • Step Two:  Set the cooking liquid (this should have great flavor) on to simmer.  You will need liquid at four times the volume of rice.  (4:1  liquid to rice)
    • Step Three:  Add the rice and stir to coat the grains with oil, and cook the kernels to the point the Italians call ‘al occio’, which means when you break the rice in half it will look like an eye.
    • Step Four:  Deglaze the pot with wine (white or red).  You should add enough wine to just cover the bottom of the pan.  Reduce this liquid by half.
    • Step Five:  Start incorporating the liquid with the rice on a medium heat.  Make the additions of liquid in measurements equal to the volume of rice.  For example, if you started with 1 cup of rice, you would add the cooking liquid 1 cup at a time.
    • Step Six:  Keep stirring the rice to keep from sticking, also developing the starch.  When you can drag the spoon or spatula through the rice and the path of the spoon isn’t filled in by the rice, it’s time to add more liquid.
    • Step Seven:  Before adding the final amount of liquid, test a little of the rice to be certain it won’t over cook from adding the total amount left.  Make the last addition of liquid, and rather than constantly stirring, shake the pot and stir just the outer edge because at this point the rice is delicate and aggressive stirring will break the grains.
    • Step Eight:  Check for doneness, add more liquid if needed.  Finish by adding a little dairy (butter, cream, cheese) correct the seasoning (salt and pepper), decide if it needs a touch of acidity (lemon juice?) and serve quickly.

Risotto is endlessly flexible.  You can add vegetables or proteins to the cooking process, use different wine/spirits, use short-grain rice or a whole world of other grains, garnish, sauce, plate, and present in many many ways.  Have fun with it and don’t be afraid to try some new flavors in combination.

Be bold, and be brave!

-Scotty


Work your Pantry

Alices Book

Alice's Book

Stocking the pantry or ‘larder’ as people used to call it, is an integral part of running a successful kitchen.  Basically, one gets into the habit of keeping a handful of staples around.  Those staples should be items that you find yourself using, or missing when they are absent.  Two example; I love olives, and I always keep a few kinds around, and when I’m out of anchovies, I curse myself for not thinking ahead and replenishing the anchovy stash (curses!).  These are two items that I keep around because I use them all the time.  They are part of my Pantry.  I like to capitalize it for significance.

Below is a long list of items that Alice Waters believes (I happen to agree) constitutes a well-stocked pantry.  This list is a great place to start thinking about how you would like to start, or perhaps remodel, your own larder.  I practiced this exercise with one of my clients a couple of weeks ago, and his cooking has been made (at least potentially!) more fluid for having these items on hand.

Pantry Staples

~  N.B. If multiple types of an item are offered, I’m simply naming several types, one or more of which will often suffice ~

-Olive oil (and at least one other ‘high smoke point’ oil as well)

-Vinegars (cider, balsamic, rice, sherry, red wine, etc.)

-Salt (kosher, flavored, fancy)

-Black peppercorns (whole – and a grinder)

-Spices (anise, bay, caraway, cardamom, cayenne, chili flakes, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, clove, fennel seed, ginger, garam masala, harissa, juniper, madras curry, nutmeg, paprika, sesame, smoked paprika, star anise, turmeric, for example)

-Pasta (short, long, favorites)

-Polenta /cornmeal

-Rice (short, long, wild, brown)

-Dried beans

-Canned tomato product (paste, whole, juice)

-Anchovies

-Capers

-Crackers (a couple of types)

-Flours (all purpose and whole wheat, bread)

-Sugars (white, brown, sanding)

-Baking powder / soda

-Vanilla (beans / extract)

-Yeast

-Jams / preserves / syrups

-Wine (red and white)

-Tobasco and Worchestershire

Perishable Staples

-Garlic (whole heads)

-Onions (white, red, Spanish)

-Shallots (or leeks, or chives)

-Celery

-Carrots

-Olives (several types)

-Fresh herbs (thyme, sage, rosemary, maybe parsley or cilantro if it will be used up)

-Eggs (grade AA large)

-Lemons (also limes, oranges)

-Mustards (Dijon, whole grain)

-Cheeses (parmesan, soft and firm types)

-Nuts (almond, hazel, walnut, pine, etc.)

-Chicken broth (frozen homemade, or bought)

-Butter (unsalted sweet)

-Milk (skim, as you wish, heavy cream)

-Bread (as you like it)

-Potatoes (mealy or waxy)

-Lunch meats / Sausages

Pantry Staples are good for a year or so.  Perishable staples are going to the light much more quickly.  Some will keep for months; others will meet their end much more quickly.  Always smell and taste before jumping into a recipe using perishable staples which haven’t been used in a while.

As Lady Alice offers, with these (or similar) items on the shelf, you will find that you have a wide vocabulary of flavors and the building blocks for dozens of dishes to chose from when you are facing down the eternal question; what’s for dinner.

Pantry and Party’n are the same word.  Think about it.  Keep cooking, keep thinking – -

-Scotty


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